When I visited Ukraine less than four years ago, the conflict in its Donbas region was still simmering. With tourists keeping away, I had Kyiv’s ample attractions to myself. I discovered a noble country rich in history and culture. Its brooding Carpathian Mountains, their boundless forests, steppes and ravines stained by continuous floods of blood and tears, are peopled by a vigorous humanity that has survived almost three thousand years of incessant oppression, assaults and wars. Breaking away from the USSR in 1991, Ukraine was now a proud nation shielded with the glow of golden-domed churches flying the colourful banners of orthodox Christianity.
Ukrainians faced tough times after independence. “All the savings my parents had were in roubles. It was all destroyed in the currency crash. For over a year, we did not have enough to eat. I hate the communists and Russians. The arrogant people of Moscow think that they are the only blessed ones,” said Yulia, my guide.

