Looking through his thick lenses set in a rickety frame, Chaudhary Karan Singh offered me the long hookah pipe and said: Leh (Have a go). As I took a long drag on the pipe, the hookah gurgled into life, and the bowl turned amber as smoke curled out from the smouldering lump of charcoal and tobacco sitting in it.
Karan Singh’s octogenarian friend Chaudhary Bhagmal Singh, sitting upright on a charpoy, wrapped in a shawl with the turban sitting proudly on his crown, broke into a toothy smile at my effort. So did a few other Jats of the twin village of Kutba-Kutbi on the periphery of Muzaffarnagar district.
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