Mehrauli is one of the oldest settlements in Delhi. It has been the centre of power since the medieval centuries.
Today, it has monuments dating back to the Slave Dynasty, Lodi Dynasty and the Mughal Era. Some of the heritage structures include the Zafar Mahal, Hauz-e-Shamsi, Jahaz Mahal, Tomb of Adam Khan, Chaumachi Khan’s tomb, Jharna (fountain), Gandak Ki Baoli, Qutub Sahab ki Baoli and any many other heritage structures which remain unidentified.
Most of these heritage structures fall under the list of “Protected Monuments” by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).
But the heritage structures in Mehrauli suffer from state neglect, lack of maintenance and encroachment. Urban settlements have sprung around these monuments violating the laws. The existence of many such monuments is threatened with the rise of buildings. Today, Mehrauli is an amalgam of old and new civilisation where the people coexist with these heritage structures.
Delhi has been home to many dynasties. Each dynasty brought with it different cultures, people and architecture. Delhi has a number of areas which have been the centres of different empires and dynasties. Mehrauli Historical city is a unique example where the old civilisation, with its heritage structures, survives with the current settlements.
People from the adjoining areas have modified the heritage structure into a house to live in.
Zafar Mahal is located deep down in the Kalkadas Marg in Mehrauli, near the Dargah of Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. It is one of the last greatest monuments built by the Mughals, though looking at its ruined condition today, one can hardly guess that. The monument is neglected by the authorities and a lot of new buildings have been built around the structure.
Today, despite the encroachments and neglect, the monument is still a beauty. The people who cater to the monument are the ones living around it. Occasionally, people like me do land up there. It is a respite for the people who search for a cozy space amid their small houses.
The terrace with the enclosed balcony was added by Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Mughal ruler of the 19th century. The view of Mehrauli from here is magnificent. Today, however, it is surrounded by buildings and shops.
The entry to Zafar Mahal is through the Hathi/Elephant Gate. There are many people who sit at the entrance of the gate. It has become a spot to gather around and socialise.
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