Roasted 'lotus seeds' or 'organic foxnuts' may be all the rage in the highly competitive world of healthy superfoods today. In Bihar, though, these deceptively named little pops of puffed prickly water lily (Euryale ferox) seeds have been around forever. In fact, makhana, as it is called locally in Bihar and other north Indian states, has always been a part of my childhood memories.
The makhana used to be a regular at weddings and other celebrations in both my home states of Bihar and Jharkhand - where I grew up - not just as food but as a cultural motif. The baratis (groom's side) would bring garlands made of makhana and khajoor (dried dates), as a gesture of goodwill for the bride's family. As a child, I would eagerly participate in these culinary customs, intrigued by their place in tradition and culture. When the bride arrived at her new home, it was almost customary for her to either cook makhana kheer or have it served in the household.
The Syncretism of Makhana
These rituals weren't just part of my family's celebrations alone but a regular fixture in almost every celebration I attended, whether for my relatives or friends, across communities and religions.
When I moved away from Ranchi, the makhana ceremonies gradually faded into the storerooms of memory, only to resurface into my life years later in the bylanes of Old Delhi, where I stumbled upon an intriguing sight.
A caterer had kept some makhana inside a box of fried onions, and my curious mind couldn’t resist asking why. To my surprise, he explained that makhana played two roles in preparing qorma, a sumptuous delicacy cooked usually with goat meat.
Storing the makhana in the box of birista onions keeps them dry, crisp, and free of moisture or mould. Additionally, makhana helps in thickening the qorma gravy while adding a nutty flavour to the dish. This was brand new information to me—something I had never thought about during my younger years. It's a learning I have kept with me since.
Incidentally, makhana has long been noted in ancient Hindu scriptures for their therapeutic qualities that are said to help improve or maintain the health of the respiratory, circulatory, digestive, excretory, and reproductive systems. Makhana seeds and flowers of the plant are also known to be a natural Aphrodisiac.
Normally grown in stagnant water bodies like ponds, low depressions, lakes and so on in India, the qorma-aiding makhana gets its name from the Sanskrit words "makh" (sacred ritual) and "anna" (grain). Is is considered the “food of the gods” and widely used as prasad during religious offerings.
Incidentally, makhana is also consumed by Muslims to break their fast during the holy month of Ramzan.
In Bihar, the puffed nut holds a place far beyond just being food. It is not just a snack but woven deeply into the social and cultural fabric of our lives—it’s offered to guests, gifted during special occasions, and exchanged as a token of goodwill. I remember seeing garlands made of makhana beads being used to honour leaders at political rallies, a unique gesture that speaks to its symbolic significance.
Its popularity across cultual and religious boundaries is perhaps yet another reminder of Bi har's unique syncretism.
From Nostalgia to Innovation
There is a popular Maithili folk proverb attesting to the cultural significance of makhanas to the communities of Bihar:
“Pag pag pokhar machh makhan
Saras bol muski mukh paan
Vidya Vaibhav shanti Pratik
Saras kshetra Mithilanchal theek.”
(At every step, you will find a pond, fish, and makhana. People speak sweetly, chewing paan—Mithila abounds in knowledge, prosperity, and peace.)
At home, when I was young, my mother would often roast makhanas with a pinch of salt and pepper, transforming them into a light and fulfilling evening snack.
Years later, while working at a restaurant, I wanted to experiment with healthy bites and the toasty aroma of my mother's roasted foxnuts suddenly seeped out of my memory and into my kitchen. I decided to apply her earthy technique of roasting foxnuts, but added various flavors like peri-peri, mint chutney, and other spices. I also made some jaggery-coated makhanas, which turned out to be a hit.
Over time, I began to see makhana in packets, branded with big names and even bigger celebrity endorsements.
In 2019, Nadine Habayeb appeared on Shark Tank USA, seeking $200,000 for 10 percent of her “popped water lily seed snack,” Bohana. Her story was that, like many regular Americans, she loved popcorn until she discovered popped water lily seeds—or, as I would say, makhana.
She struck a deal with Kevin O'Leary for a $200,000 loan at nine percent interest over three years, in exchange for eight percent equity. What’s interesting is that her product came from India, where makhana has long been a part of the food culture.
Makhana is mostly cultivated in lowland ponds of Bihar, Orissa, Assam, and West Bengal. Makhana from Mithilanchal has also earned the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2022, further cementing its cultural and culinary significance.
India, in fact, has a lion’s share in global makhana production, with Bihar alone producing 90 percent of the world’s total makhana.
According to Volza's India Export data, India exported 1,145 shipments of Makhana (HSN Code 19041090) from March 2023 to February 2024 (TTM or Trailing 12 Months). These shipments were made by 178 Indian exporters to 422 buyers, reflecting a 61 percent growth compared to the previous twelve months.
Makhana in Spotlight but Farmers Remain in Dark
And yet, the people of Mithilanchal rarelt get their share of credit or proceeds for bringing the world its favourite superfood. Despite its newfound stardom and prime placement in the fitness food aisles of global departmental stores, those involved in the production of makhana, which includes some of the most marginalised people in the world, remain on the back burner.
Ravi Kumar Singh, a makhana farmer from Darbhanga, tells me that the seed flourishes in stagnant ponds, swamps, and oxbow lakes—places where the water is about one or two metres deep. He explains that makhana thrives in the humid climes of Bihar, with ideal conditions of 20°C-35°C temperature.
The makhana's Kafkesque lifecycle and eventual metamorphosis starts in December with the sowing of the foxnut seeds. Over the winter months, these seeds begin to sprout in bottom of ponds and waterbodies, quietly snaking updard toward the light. By April-June, the plant’s floating leaves take over the surface of the pond like a giant, tentacled quid. From May to October, the plant begins to bloom and self-pollinate.
Harvesting makhana is a painstakingly delicate job. Singh says that by August, the ripe fruits burst, and the seeds sink to the bottom. This is when skilled workers, mostly from the Mallah community, dive into the water to gather the seeds. These seeds are then carefully sun-dried, pre-heated, tempered, and roasted before in the end transmuting into the crispy, light popped makhana we enjoy.
Low exports remain one of the biggest problem for small to medium scale producers. Despite the high potential of makhana, experts highlight that the quantity of popped makhana exported internationally remains much lower compared to other dry fruits like almonds and cashews.
In a 2024 paper titled Bihar's Makhana Production Scenario, researchers Madhuri Singh and Dr Sanjay Kumar Agrawal found the key reasons for this limitation include low production, inconsistent quality, lack of mechanisation in harvesting and processing, and the near absence of value addition to makhana. Adopting strategies to improve these areas could significantly boost the export of makhana from India.
Media reports also suggest the challenges faced by makhana farmers in Bihar, including mounting debts and declining crop yields.
Initiatives, such as the development of the Sabour Makhana-1 variety, aimed at increasing crop yields and improving farmers' profitability, have been undertaken but much needs to be done in terms of supporting indigenous farmers and improving local infrastructure for makhana farming in Bihar.
Now, in a landmark move, Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman announced the creation of the Makhana Board in Bihar as part of the Union Budget 2025. This board will be tasked with improving processing and value addition, giving makhana the recognition it truly deserves on a national scale.
The formation of the Makhana Board presents a significant opportunity for Bihar to position itself as a global leader in the production and export of makhana.
If implemented effectively, this initiative could uplift the livelihoods of thousands of farmers, creating a well-structured and profitable supply chain. Additionally, it could enhance India’s position in the booming global superfood market.
However, the real challenge lies in the execution of such plan. Success will depend on the government's ability to move beyond election-driven rhetoric and deliver tangible results. Without a clear commitment, the initiative may risk becoming another unfulfilled promise, leaving farmers in the same state of struggle they've known for years. Moreover, without policies that take into account all parts of the makhana production and supply chain, farming of the seeds would remain inequitable.
The Mallah divers, for instance, who perform the most essential harvesting task under water, are one of the most marginalised communities of Bihar. They remain at the bottom of the makhana production chain as well as the country's socio-political order, and see no part of the multimillion-dollar industry the humble makhana is spawning outside the pond they fish it from. Despite being key to the makhana's metamorphosis, they remain footnotes in the foxnut's success story.
(Sadaf Hussain is an author, chef, food writer, podcaster and two-time TedX speaker, who was among the top 8 on MasterChef India in 2016. This is an opinion piece, and the views expressed above are the author’s own. The Quint neither endorses nor is responsible for the same.)