As I took my first bite of a perfectly flaky Kerala parotha, I didn’t know that I was also getting an introduction to what Kochi represented in terms of cuisine and culture. Like each symmetrical layer of that parotha, Kochi is a city that has different textures and layers to its myriad ethos.
On a three-day getaway, I did what most tourists would do – i.e. visit all the famous places like Athirapally Falls and Guruvayoor Temple in the first two days – and ate delectable food like prawns in raw mango curry and custard cream at the famous Paragon Restaurant. But the last day was when I truly discovered my most favourite part of the city – Fort Kochi.
As my cab driver dropped me off at St Francis Church, I got my first glimpse of foreigners who were on a group tour. Shops selling souvenirs lined the road as I walked past Vasco da Gama Square towards the famous Chinese Fishing Nets. Legend has it that these nets were introduced in Fort Kochi by the Chinese explorer, Zheng He. They were brought from the court of the Chinese emperor, Kublai Khan and have been in India ever since. I found locals who would catch fresh seafood and take it to a small shop where it would be cooked on the spot for a nominal rate. That fish and shrimp platter I tasted was delightfully fresh, seasoned with only salt, pepper and a dash of lime.
With my protein intake sorted, I decided to do some cardio and walk the three-kilometre stretch to the famous Jewish Synagogue.
Of a Bright Red Door and a White Picket Fence
As I made my way through the narrow cobbled streets, I soaked in the heritage and cuisine that Fort Kochi has to offer. Locals and foreigners in equal numbers walked around doing their daily chores. Many foreigners have made Fort Kochi their permanent home and opened yoga centres or quaint little homestays for tourists.
The colourful houses and buildings have eclectic personalities – a bright red door, a balcony filled with bougainvilleas or a white picket fence – you name it. I walked past peaceful Ayurveda centres and bustling spice markets, buying different spices along the way. An especially unique spice I encountered was the long pepper, a perfect remedy for a cold and a pungent addition of flavour to give that extra kick to any curry or meat.
I marvelled at the different flavours of coffee available – from cinnamon and ginger to nutmeg and cardamom, I filled my bag with as many packets as I could, knowing full well that my friends and family in Mumbai would swoon over hot cups of this rich and flavourful treasure.
Fort Kochi has something for everyone – whether you want to sample authentic Kerala cuisine or stick to subtle European flavours, you will be spoiled for choice.
Fort Kochi, Where Time Stands Still
With churches dating back to the year 1550, mosques built in the year 1340 and a synagogue dating back to the 12th century, Fort Kochi is the perfect place to get your fix of history and culture.
I stumbled upon a café that had exquisite sculptures and art installations – along with a great view of the sea. As I sipped my fresh ginger lime soda and soaked in the gorgeous sunset, I couldn’t help but notice how time passed ever so slowly in Fort Kochi. Nobody was in a rush, no one was running to get to some place – they were just being; and there was something magical about the way time slowed down here and let you savour each moment for just a little while longer.
I left Fort Kochi with a strange feeling of nostalgia and a hint of happiness, knowing full well that I would be back again to this hidden gem of tradition and heritage where time stood still – so that we could too.
(Salona Bains Joshi is a creative producer by profession and foodie by passion. Working on movies and commercials takes her to different parts of the world allowing her to pique her curiosity in new stories and cuisines.)
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