We had just gone past the rows of lily white, pathan suit-attired students shuffling up the fast-moving queue to take their respective portions of the fragrant nihari in small steel containers and freshly baked soft tandoori chapatis.
Behind the red-bricked mess attached to a wing of one of the hostels for senior students at the Deoband Darul Uloom in western UP’s Saharanpur district, five buffalo calves, who we initially mistook for having strayed into the campus, had been rustled up.
No more than 10 metres away, a man dressed in a grey track-and-jump suit paced up and down, a six-inch knife gripped tightly in his right fist. Two tall men, their muscles bulging and rippling under their fraying sweaters, pushed one of the bewildered beasts to a corner along the 150-year-old wall and in one powerful heave felled the animal on the kill floor.

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