Nestled in the folds of the south Goan city of Margaon is a community as unique as it is old. These are the Bhadels, a proud but dwindling breed of women porters who have been active in the area since the mid-eighteenth century.

Traditionally Roman Catholics, these women – believed to be Asia’s only lady coolies – have been hauling heavy loads for a living for over two centuries now. They walk long distances and currently earn anything between 50 to 200 rupees a day.

The Bhadels have sustained themselves on a time-honoured tradition of passing down their occupation through the women in the family. This has been happening since the 1750s. Today, only a handful remain as a testament to this community’s hoary tradition.

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The dwindling numbers are self-evident – particularly as no female member of the younger generation has taken up the occupation. Older Bhadel women cite education as one of the primary reasons for this shift.

Our daughters are not interested in this work, they have studied a little, so want to work in offices.
– Maria Borges

The Bhadels of Margao are Kunbis – a tribal community considered indigenous to Goa. There are currently only a dozen or so left of them, who work in the Margao market – mostly serving the shopkeepers and business community – something they’ve been doing for centuries. Each of these women is over 50 years of age.

In 2011, as part of events to commemorate 50 years of liberation from Portuguese rule, the Goan government recognised the services of those Bhadels who had worked in this occupation for over 25 years. They were given a one-time honorarium of Rs 25,000.

Although the women can officially apply for government pension schemes for senior citizens, they remain proud workers who have so far shied away from taking any help.

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