Fans, Frenzy & Fervour: Inside Saudi Arabia’s El Clasico, Where Football Is Life

The Quint attended Saudi Arabia's biggest football match. Here are tales from the fanaticism & frenzy that followed.

A tale of Saudi Arabia's football fanaticism.

(Photo: The Quint)

Kick-off is minutes away, and Al-Hasan is poised to spark pandemonium.

Even the most fortunate would not find an empty seat at the King Abdullah Sports City in Jeddah. Nearly 60,000 fans engaged in an unbridled display of fanaticism, and why shouldn’t they? Tonight is no ordinary match, it is the Saudi Arabian El Clasico – a showdown between the nation’s two biggest teams, Al-Ittihad and Al-Hilal. With the title being on the line, the stakes are higher than ever, and the atmosphere cannot be any more intense.

The stadium reverberates with Kendrick Lamar’s ‘Not Like Us.’ The chorus resonates with the home crowd, for, Al-Ittihad fans believe Al-Hilal are, indeed, not like them. Al-Ittihad represents Jeddah’s melting pot — a working-class stronghold. Al-Hilal, in contrast, are from the political and financial capital of Riyadh, catering to the socio-economically elite. Thousands of minuscule cutouts merge in perfect unison, spelling out three defiant words: Not Like Us.

A breathtaking mosaic, spelling out three defiant words.

The cauldron.

The Man (Not) Called Al-Hasan

Al-Hilal fans are outnumbered, naturally so as it is their away game. But outpassioned? Not quite. They are preparing to unfurl their tifo, one that says ‘No escape, nowhere to hide.’

Little had they known, Al-Hasan had hidden himself quite meticulously. A leader of Al-Ittihad’s radical ultras group, Curva Gold, he was supposed to be stationed at the far end of the stadium, chanting with his brethren. Instead, alongside 20 other Curva Gold members, he has infiltrated a non-ultras section adjacent to the Al-Hilal fans. Besides his identity, he has concealed something more sinister under his outfit.

The speakers blare K-Dot singing: ‘Sometimes you gotta pop out and show.’

Al-Hasan pops out. And, sure enough, he shows.

Just as Al-Hilal fans unfurl their grand display, he strikes with a sharp object, slashing through the tifo, carving holes into their symbol of pride. His mission is complete. Now, he must vanish before security descends upon him.

Al-Hasan makes a run for his life, weaving through the chaotic throng. In a few minutes, he is at his supposed sanctuary, masterfully blended among his Curva Gold brothers.

Mission completed, successfully.

In distance, we can see the Al-Hilal tifo that is about to end up in tatters.

(Photo: The Quint)

But, why did he do what he did? He tells The Quint, who witnessed the entire occurrence:

Because they need they know that we rule this place. This is Al-Ittihad’s den, no one else is welcome here. This is not the first time I have done such a thing, and it surely won’t be the last.

Al-Hasan, member of Curva Gold

The Wild World of Curva Gold

Not the first time? Turns out, the previous operation was even more audacious.

This story is from 2023. Our rivals Al-Ahli were recently promoted from the second division, and they were acting as if they were the best team in Jeddah. We knew we had to teach them a lesson, so a few of us sneaked into the non-ultras section right next to the Al-Ahli fans. Just when they were about to unfurl their tifo, we threw smoke bombs at them and sparked chaos. Many of my compatriots were arrested. It has been nearly two years and I still don’t know when I will see them again. Now, there are a lot of restrictions, we need to inform the authorities about all of our plans since that incident.

Al-Hasan, member of Curva Gold

Were the authorities informed about what unfolded moments ago? Al-Hasan can only offer a smile, and it says all I need to know.

We make the long walk – or should I say, run? – to the Curva Gold section. Journalists are strictly prohibited, but I’m granted access. Albeit, only after after agreeing to certain conditions.

Don’t tell anyone you are from the media, and if you want to click pictures, do it stealthily. At Curva Gold, we firmly believe that none of us have any individual identities, but our collective identity is that we are devoted supporters of Al-Ittihad. Come rain or shine, you will find us chanting with the same intensity throughout the 90 minutes. We have a ‘No fame, no face, no media’ policy. Our face is the club’s crest, our fame is the club’s achievements.

Al-Hasan, member of Curva Gold

Courtesy Al-Hasan, I am now one with the ultras. Hundreds singing in thunderous harmony, wearing identical Curva Gold shirts, and waving the same flag, forming a breathtaking mosaic of defiance. Journalistic clandestineness engendered the collection of visual evidence through photographs, albeit, not a single fan would speak.

There are strict rules, as the group’s official website reads:

Giving statements and speaking to media channels or media accounts or newspapers or journalists while wearing or on behalf of Curva Gold is prohibited.

Curva Gold's official instruction

Inside the Curva Gold enclosure, where fanaticism trumps everything else.

Curva Gold members unfurl a gigantic tifo.

The plastic sheets, which amalgamated to form 'Not Like Us.'

Chanting never stops here.

Al-Hasan knows this story might cost him his prized Curva Gold membership, but he is a congenital anarchist. Ironically, when is not busy causing trouble to the authorities, he works for them, at the National Water Company.

His name is not Al-Hasan. In fact, Al-Hasan Al-Yami was the scorer in Al-Ittihad’s status quo-defying 2-0 win over Al-Hilal at the 2001-02 Asian Club Championship.

His real name? In true Kanye West fashion: I guess we will never know.

Curva Gold constitute an integral part of the Al-Ittihad fan base, but fanaticism exists beyond them. In the non-ultras section, Abdulaziz awaits kickoff in a wheelchair, having recently undergone knee surgery.

Why’s he still at the stadium? He explains.

I travel to every single match irrespective of where it is, including as far as Spain. It was not even a big game, it was just a pre-season friendly against Sevilla, but I could not afford to miss. You are seeing me on a wheelchair now because I recently met with an accident and had to get my knee operated on. But to miss my first match in 20 years because of that? No chance.

Abdulaziz, Al-Ittihad fan

Despite a knee operation, Abdulaziz could not afford to miss the match.

(Photo: The Quint)

The Incessant Chanting Collective Called Blue Power

Sure, the considerably outnumbered Al-Hilal fans are not as raucous. Yet, they do have their share of fervent fanhood.

Abdul, an organiser of the Blue Power group, is frantically running up and down the stairs, ensuring his comrades are seated in their allotted places. Once done with his ordeal, he says:

I have been a fan of Al-Hilal since the day I was born. I think people outside our country are not really aware of how big football is in Saudi Arabia. It is massive, it is an integral part of our lives. This group that you are seeing here – the crazy lot that is always jumping and chanting – we are Blue Power. We have travelled ten hours from Riyadh to be here, it has cost me 5000 SAR, but come on, this is the least I can do for the club that I love.

Abdul, member of Blue Power

Abdul travelled all the way from Riyadh.

(Photo: The Quint)

Abdul can consider himself fortunate, for he lives only a few blocks away from Al-Hilal’s home ground, Kingdom Arena.

Ahmed, however, endures laboriously long trips every matchday, irrespective of whether it is a home or an away game, for he stays near the Saudi Arabia-Jordan border.

Al-Hilal is my life. I love every little aspect of my club. I was only 14 when I saw Yasser Al-Qahtani do his famous celebratory dance after a goal, and I immediately fell in love with the club. Since then, the love has only gotten stronger. I am from Tabuk, which is near Jordan. It took me twelve hours to come to the stadium, and another twelve to go back, but I have zero complaints. I also go to every single one of our home matches in Riyadh, which requires a 30-hour round trip. But anything for Al-Hilal.

Ahmed, member of Blue Power

Ahmed, who travels 30 hours to attend Al-Hilal's home matches.

(Photo: The Quint)

Distance doesn't matter for Al-Hilal fans.

(Photo: The Quint)

Away from the designated zone for the ultras, there is a section for the physically disadvantaged in the Al-Hilal corner, as there was in the Al-Ittihad corner, where I had met Abdulaziz.

Here, I found Mohammed Al-Shahrani eagerly awaiting kickoff. Muscular dystrophy has immobilised him from his waist, but it proved to be inefficacious in front of his fandom.

He says:

Al-Hilal runs in my family, I became a fan because of my parents. I won’t say Saudi Arabians are just passionate about football, but it is a way of living for us. I wake up with football, eat with football, sleep with football. I have muscular dystrophy. It’s a genetic condition that damages your muscles. But even then, I try to attend every single match. What’s my life in comparison to my love for the club? If it sounds crazy, so be it but this is how fans are here.

Mohammed Al-Shahrani, Al-Hilal fan

Muscular dystrophy has not stopped Mohammed Al-Shahrani from attending Al-Hilal's matches.

(Photo: The Quint)

Of Football & Life

The Blue Power, using persuasive powers to the best of their abilities, aided with statistics, argue why Al-Hilal are the best team in Saudi Arabia. On the pitch, however, Al-Ittihad reigned supreme. A Steven Bergwijn brace, and a goal apiece from Karim Benzema and Hassan Kadesh earned them a 4-1 triumph, after Marcos Leonardo had opened the scoring for the Blues. Currently six points clear atop the league table, they are very likely to win the competition.

Come rain or shine, or even a result as drastic as 4-1, these two promise to turn up in every Al-Hilal match.

(Photo: The Quint)

Football, however, runs way beyond goals and glories, competitions and champions. Transcending limitations, it portrays tales of illimitable vehemence for a phenomenon that remains an enigma

Perhaps, call it life? As, for these Saudi Arabian fans, football is exactly that – life. Nothing more, nothing less.