Wilting Beauty: The Sad State of Mehrauli’s Monuments

Today, Mehrauli is an amalgam of old and new civilisation where the people coexist with the heritage structures.

Zafar Mahal entry

(Photo Courtesy: Majid Alam)

A part of Chaumachi Khan’s Tomb. The tomb is encroached by the buildings around.

Mehrauli is one of the oldest settlements in Delhi. It has been the centre of power since the medieval centuries.

Today, it has monuments dating back to the Slave Dynasty, Lodi Dynasty and the Mughal Era. Some of the heritage structures include the Zafar Mahal, Hauz-e-Shamsi, Jahaz Mahal, Tomb of Adam Khan, Chaumachi Khan’s tomb, Jharna (fountain), Gandak Ki Baoli, Qutub Sahab ki Baoli and any many other heritage structures which remain unidentified.

Most of these heritage structures fall under the list of “Protected Monuments” by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

But the heritage structures in Mehrauli suffer from state neglect, lack of maintenance and encroachment. Urban settlements have sprung around these monuments violating the laws. The existence of many such monuments is threatened with the rise of buildings. Today, Mehrauli is an amalgam of old and new civilisation where the people coexist with these heritage structures.

Unidentified remains near the Dargah of Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki.

Delhi has been home to many dynasties. Each dynasty brought with it different cultures, people and architecture. Delhi has a number of areas which have been the centres of different empires and dynasties. Mehrauli Historical city is a unique example where the old civilisation, with its heritage structures, survives with the current settlements.

People from the adjoining areas have modified the heritage structure into a house to live in.

People have modified the heritage structure to live in. (Rear View)

Zafar Mahal is located deep down in the Kalkadas Marg in Mehrauli, near the Dargah of Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. It is one of the last greatest monuments built by the Mughals, though looking at its ruined condition today, one can hardly guess that. The monument is neglected by the authorities and a lot of new buildings have been built around the structure.

Zafar Mahal, Mehrauli. The wall shows the ruined state of Zafar Mahal.

Zafar Mahal is one of the last monuments build under the Mughals by Bahadur Shah Zafar. But seeing its current state, one could hardly realise that.

Today, despite the encroachments and neglect, the monument is still a beauty. The people who cater to the monument are the ones living around it. Occasionally, people like me do land up there. It is a respite for the people who search for a cozy space amid their small houses.

Zafar Mahal, Mehrauli.

The terrace with the enclosed balcony was added by Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Mughal ruler of the 19th century. The view of Mehrauli from here is magnificent. Today, however, it is surrounded by buildings and shops.

View from the terrace of Zafar Mahal. The view of Mehrauli from here is magnificent. Today, however, it is surrounded by buildings and shops.

The entry to Zafar Mahal is through the Hathi/Elephant Gate. There are many people who sit at the entrance of the gate. It has become a spot to gather around and socialise.

The entry to Zafar Mahal is through the Hathi/Elephant Gate. There are many people who sit at the entrance of the gate. It has become a spot to gather around and socialise.

Today, slums have grown around Jharna. The structure is falling apart due to neglect. 

Chaumachi Khan’s Tomb

An old structure converted into a government office at the Kalka Das Marg, Mehrauli.

The tomb of Adham Khan is commonly known as Bhool Bhulaiya in Mehrauli. The tomb is octagonal and aesthetically designed. It is close to Mehrauli Bus Terminal and serves as space for people to sit and relax.

An old graveyard that remains locked in the premise of Dargah of Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki.

Pahariwali Masjid, a historical mosque in Mehrauli, is occupied by the people living in the area. Slums have come up in the area threatening the heritage structures.