Photos: From Dyeing to 'Coding', The Art of Making Kashmir's Famous Kani Shawls

The key material used to make Kani shawls is Pashmina, an extraordinary wool found in the unique climate of Kashmir.

Kashmir is known for making beautiful, handcrafted goods – and one of them is the Kani shawl.

(Photo: Aiman Fayaz and Umar Dar)

Kashmir is known for making beautiful, handcrafted goods – and one of them is the Kani shawl. These carefully woven shawls have been around for more than 300 years. The key material used to make these shawls is Pashmina, a special kind of wool, which is extraordinary because it comes from a specific type of goat found in the unique climate and geography of the region.

In the warmly lit room, Abdul Rashid in Kanihama town expertly spins the Pashmina fibers on the spinning wheel, crafting them into fine threads. This initial stage of the intricate shawl-making process demands patience and precision, taking several days to carefully shape the fibers into usable threads.

Once the Pashmina threads are woven using a hand-spin, they are transported to Srinagar. Here, the threads undergo a dyeing process, where both the Pashmina shawls and threads are submerged in hot water with different colours.

Salman Bhat, a 17-year-old, explains, "The plain Pashmina thread or shawl is white in colour, but here (in the workshop), we add vibrant colours to make them appealing. My family's financial situation led me to undertake this job, and I found solace in the colors." As Salman navigates the intricate interplay between Pashmina and colours, he articulates his profound attachment to them. "Colour defines my existence. I doubt I could have found such contentment and stability elsewhere."

A tranquil pool reflects an exquisite blend of colours, casting a mesmerising violet tint across its surface at the Rangrez Karkhana in Srinagar. After the thread returns from the dyeing process, it is tightly secured in the looms, marking the start of the months-long journey to create a Kani shawl.

Kani weaving, a delicate craft, relies on small wooden sticks called 'kanis'. Artisans wrap colourful threads around these sticks, making beautiful patterns on the shawl. These sticks are made from a special forest wood called 'poos tul', adding to the charm of Kani shawls.

The process uses a unique system or code called 'talim', which is known only to the local weavers. These codes specify the intricacy and colour of each thread needed for a particular Kani shawl. Iram Mir, a Kani shawl maker, describes the process, saying, "We have to study the precise geometry of Kani shawls before even picking up the wooden stick for weaving – similar to studying alphabets to compose a well-written essay."

The Pashmina threads are intricately secured in a handloom to ensure a seamless weaving process. Shaheena, a 30-year-old resident of Kanihama, Kashmir, dedicates 14 hours every day to meticulously craft just a few centimeters of Kani shawl, using wooden needles on her handloom.

The time taken to complete a Kani shawl varies significantly based on the labyrinthine patterns and the complexity of the designs involved. It may take anywhere from three to 36 months to finish a Kani shawl entirely.

Sixteen-year-old Bisma learned to weave from her brothers and cousins, who have been involved in the craft for decades. In the village of Kanihama, studying and acquiring weaving skills are a customary practice. She sees weaving as more than just a craft; it's a cultural legacy that she is proud to carry forward.

Once the Kani shawl is fully completed, it is transported to Srinagar for washing. This process is essential to remove any accumulated dirt or impurities that may have collected on the shawl during its months-long creation.

Ali Mohammad, a 65-year-old washerman at the Dhobi Ghat in Srinagar, has been dedicated to his craft for over 50 years. He inherited his expertise from his father and has since become a master of his trade. Reflecting on the changing times, Mohammad lamented, "Foreigners used to entrust us with washing their precious shawls and clothes, but today, earning from this job has become increasingly difficult."

The washerman diligently washes the shawls with various detergents along the banks of the Jhelum River in Shehr-e-Khaas, Srinagar.

The shawls are subsequently hung on the opposite side of the bridge from the Dhobi Ghat, where they bask in the sunlight for drying.

From turning Pashmina threads into yarn to washing the final Kani shawl, making these shawls takes a lot of effort and creativity. This old way of making Kani shawls not only creates beautiful art but also helps people make a living, keeping them closely connected to the craft.