Bohri Mohalla: Mumbai’s Hidden Gem During the Holy Month of Ramzan

A mobile phone photo feature on Bohri Mohalla, a lesser-known option in Mumbai for delicious Ramzan food & fanfare.

Meat skewers fresh off the coals lined tiny kiosks after sundown at Bohri Mohalla, in Bhendi Bazaar, south Mumbai on 15 June 2016. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

In Mumbai, Ramzan and the monsoons coincide. As I made my way into Bohri Mohalla, determined to explore this nugget of heritage and culture tucked into the crowded market area of south Mumbai, dark clouds descended ferociously. I had heard of the overcrowded Mohd. Ali Road too often; this quaint, old place offered the perfect alternative. I reached just before sundown, when all the Muslims made a beeline to the nearby mosque to offer their evening prayers. Soon, the resounding azan filled the air, and the Mohalla stood still. Families broke their fasts together in communal plates, along the lanes, in their shops; I couldn’t help but feel the togetherness and peace in that moment.

Then, the rain came and went for the next hour or two, in aggressive spurts. That, with the religious fervour and intoxicating smell of food made it easy to ditch the heavy photography gear and stick to a cell phone. Hundreds of communal tables were laid out end-to-end by consecutive kiosks selling authentic Bohri cuisine; from chicken tikka to the elaborate Paaya or the 12 Handi, all was found here.

The streets of Bohri Mohalla in Bhendi Bazaar of South Mumbai, just before sundown. As I reached here, all the Muslims were headed to the nearby Minara Masjid to offer their prayers before breaking their fast; the Holy Month of Ramzan in currently underway. Black clouds threatened to rain down, but could not dampen the obvious festive cheer. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

There is something about getting drenched in the first rains of Mumbai monsoons as you get pushed and elbowed while you gulp down more red meat than you ever thought you could. In the commotion and gastronomical delirium, it is easy to overlook years of ancestral tradition, community and celebration in motion during this holy month.

A man outside the renowned Surti 12 Handi, near the shrine of late Sayenda Taher Saiffuddin, prepares his shop for the evening revelry, when hundreds of people go from kiosk-to-kiosk, eating meaty delicacies. Surti Bara Handi Paya is run by a Bohra Muslim, Surti Hafiz Ismail, who sells 12 Handi, an Iranian meal passed down through the generations. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

The most common sight in Bohri Mohalla once night sets in is rows of tins filled with various chicken and mutton delicacies on skewers, freshly made in small kitchens nearby. Sold for as little as Rs 20, people gather along the lanes, chatting, meeting new people, all while being silently welcomed by the Muslims to celebrate Ramzan with them. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

When the sun sets, the azan from the Jama Masjid and the Minara Masjid fill the air, and the streets fall empty. Groups of Muslims can be seen huddled in corners, inside shops, on tables, breaking their fast by having Iftar from the same plate. Then, they lay out their wares for sale: mutton and chicken kebabs, tangdi pieces and masala tikkas. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

With some places becoming hugely popular due to word of mouth and social media, small kiosks run by generations here see less business. Here, a man prepares Baida rotis and rolls while he waits for his customers to arrive. The glitzy 50-year old Tawkkal Sweets is overcrowded across the street from him. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

Tawkkal Sweets in the Saifee Ambulance lane was set up by a Borhi family 50 years ago. Today, their freshly made phirnis and malpuas are exclusive dishes much in demand during Ramzan. Large vessels to make malpuas and fry meat are placed outside the shop with ten men coaxing passers-by to stop and have a taste. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

Fresh and crispy chicken rolls off the coals at the quaint, and lesser-known Bohri Mohalla in South Mumbai. With a decrease in the age of the demographic that visits, non-traditional recipes such as Chicken 65 have also found a place in the menus. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

A classic Mughlai sweet, phirnis are a rice pudding of sorts; this one being Mango flavoured. During Ramzan, trays over trays filled with chilled, fluffy phirnis are sold, with all members of the family coming out to help with the shop. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

A cook looks up during his hectic evening at the India Hotel, run by the 77-year-old Haji Chacha here for the last 40 years. Demand increases so much during Ramzan that extra vessels and cooking stations are set up on the shop floor; plastic tables are laid out outside, where people can sit and eat snacks from neighbouring kiosks as well. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

A stall in front of the famous India Hotel setting up after sun-down for the night’s celebrations. Crowds usually drift in by 10 PM, when large vessels filled with different cuts of meat bubbling in wonderful-smelling broth are opened for all to see, almost like a Japanese tea ceremony. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

Malpua is a common sweet dish in North India, but the kind made during Ramzan at Tawakkal Sweets can only be described as sin. Pancakes freshly deep-fried with or without egg, dipped in sugar syrup is a hot favourite of the crowds who stand by as they watch their orders prepared. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

A man sells old-school phirnis at Bohri Mohalla, South Mumbai. The shopkeepers fast since 3:30 in the morning, break their fast at sundown, and then serve delicious Bohri cuisine to hungry customers cramped into tiny shops well into midnight. (Photo: The Quint/Pallavi Prasad)

(This story was first published on 16 June 2016 and has been reposted from The Quint’s archives to mark the month of Ramzan)