'Not Just About...': Women Vendors Along Dal Lake Brave Kashmir’s Harsh Winters

As winter tightens its grip, the calm water of the Dal Lak is frozen, making life difficult for vegetable vendors.

Khadijah Akhoon selling vegetables on the road along the shores of Dal Lake in Sri Nagar

(Photo Courtesy: Adil Hussain)

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In the heart of the Kashmir Valley, one of Srinagar's most prestigious roads runs along the world-famous Dal Lake. The road is not only a timeless symbol of cultural heritage, but also a vital source of livelihood for many.

On this very road, Khadijah Akhoon, a resilient 55-year-old, earns her living by selling vegetables. Every day, Khadijah starts at the wee hours of the morning by loading her shikara with fresh vegetables to sell on the shores of Dal Lake.

But when winter tightens its grip, the calm water of the Dal Lak can become frozen, making life difficult for Khadijah – and many others who rely on it for their livelihood.

Every day, Khadijah starts at the wee hours of the morning by loading her shikara with fresh vegetables to sell on the shores of Dal Lake.

(Photo Courtesy: Adil Hussain)

Harsh Winters, Harder Lives

This year, winter arrived early in the Valley, freezing the Dal Lake earlier than usual.

"This winter has been especially tough," Khadijah laments. "The lake has frozen early, making it impossible to navigate by shikara. Moving vegetables to and from the market now requires us to rent load carriers every day. For us, it's an extra load," she adds.

Khadijah Akhoon selling vegetables on the road along the shores of Dal Lake in Srinagar.

(Photo Courtesy: Adil Hussain)

The phenomenon of freezing Dal Lake is closely tied to the region’s harsh winters, characterised by the traditional period known as Chillai Kalan. This Persian term, meaning 'Major Cold', spans from 21 December to 31 January – and is known for its biting cold, heavy snowfall, and frozen water bodies. It is followed by Chillai Khurd ('Small Cold') from 31 January to 19 February and Chillai Bacha ('Baby Cold') from 20 February to 2 March. Chillai Kalan continues to be recognised as the harshest period, despite the challenges associated with each stage.

This winter, Srinagar experienced its coldest December in nearly 30 years, with temperatures falling to their second-lowest level in 133 years.

Many, like Khadijah, have had to adjust to new challenges as a result of the severe cold. "In the past, we could rely on our shikara to carry vegetables, saving costs and effort. Now, we have to bear the daily expense of hiring load carriers. It’s not just about money; it’s about the strain of adapting to these changes every year," she adds.

The challenges for women selling vegetables and fish on the Dal Lake’s banks extend beyond the freezing cold. For hours – sometimes eight during harsh winters and up to 13 on better days – they brave the elements to earn their livelihood. However, restrictions imposed by authorities like LAWDA (Lakes and Waterways Development Authority) and SMC (Srinagar Municipal Corporation) add to their struggles.

"We are not permitted to protect ourselves from the cold by using tarpaulins. When someone erects a tarpaulin, authorities take it down the following day," Khadijah says. "And during VIP movements along the foreshore, we’re not even allowed to set up stalls. It’s disheartening because what we earn in a day is what we survive on."

A frozen Dal Lake.

(Photo Courtesy: Adil Hussain)

Events like the October marathon, which drew over 1,700 athletes from India and 12 foreign countries, brought further disruptions.

"We weren’t allowed to sell vegetables for 15 days until the marathon was over. First, we sold vegetables on the shores of Dal Lake, but after the Smart City project began, we were moved to the opposite side of the road," says another vendor.

The absence of basic amenities like electricity, clean water, restrooms, and shelters at work makes things more difficult for the sellers.

Health and Safety at Risk

The Government Medical College Srinagar had issued warning this winter about the increased risks of heart attacks in winter months, particularly due to cold weather and air pollution. The college urged people to stay warm and minimise exposure to cold and air pollution, especially individuals in high-risk groups, to reduce the likelihood of a heart attack.

The street vendors in general – and women vendors in particular – are subjected to a number of health vulnerabilities.

Fatima, a 65-year-old vegetable seller, has been unable to work for the past 15 days after she came down with fever and cold brought on by the harsh winter. Her missing presence in the market impacts not just her income but also highlights the fragile situation of those who depend on daily earnings to survive. She's been making a living by selling vegetables for over three decades.

"Besides dealing with vehicular pollution, we’re also at risk of accidents. When snow starts or water on the road freezes, the chances of accidents increase. Yet, we come daily, no matter the weather, to set up our stalls on the footpaths," Khadijah shares.

Then there is Khatijah Bhat, a 70-year-old woman, who is a living example of resilience and courage. She is the sole breadwinner of her family. She is a caregiver for her ailing husband and her grandchildren after a family tragedy.

Khatijah Bhat, a 70-year-old woman, is a living example of resilience and courage.

(Photo Courtesy: Adil Hussain)

"My daughter fell into a coma after delivering her second child and passed away three days later. Her husband remarried and left the children with me. Now, I have to provide for them, too. The daily rise in living costs is becoming burdensome, and if the government restricts our ability to work here, we won’t have any alternative means to generate income," she laments.

(Adil Husaain is an independent freelance journalist based in Srinagar, Kashmir. His works is published in Tasnim News Agency, twocircles etc. This is an opinion piece, and the views expressed above are the author’s own. The Quint neither endorses nor is responsible for the same.)